Charming Meena Tai’s has refurbished an old building, making it home. One room leads into the next. I chose a table in the last room of the restaurant, automatically getting a walk through. Fresh blue and yellow dominate walls, while green painted window frames add touches of history. A large chandelier in the front room demands attention, while a set of shelves, holding jars of interesting ingredients call out to me from the wall. I could spend all day gazing at every detail in the restaurant#39;s very ethnic décor, which I’m told the team scored Pune#39;s markets, coming up with real ‘finds’. Beautifully crafted, a hanging brass lamp quietly makes its statement in a far corner while portraits of Maratha men look me straight in the eye. That furniture feels solid. And it is. Solid teak wood. I like.
I’m quite enamoured by the unusual Sol Kadhi with its kokum, garlic, green chillies and coconut milk. Be warned. It is not sweet, and is meant to digest your food.
Papad Koshimbir needs to be eaten fresh or the papad crumble will wilt. Delicious and simple, it has the right mix of shredded coconut, onion and salt.
Sesame seeds add minuscule fragments of crunch and their distinguishing taste to the Kothimbir Vadi, which, as the name suggests is loaded with coriander. Steamed before being deep fried, it has that soft crumble.
Coconut surrounds the Malvani Kombdi Sukka. Succulent boneless chicken (kombdi) chunks make this a solid starter. I actually have a second piece: it is that good.
For my main course, I absolutely love the Aambaadichi Bhaaji. Sorrel leaves add their distinct tang, while the channa dal give the one dish meal body. The divine fragrance of ghee taps me on the nose, proclaiming its presence.
Nagpuri Dahi Mutton with Malvani Vade: pooris with a delicious, tangy mutton curry, cooked in curds. Spicy yet mild, it lets the flavours from the juicy mutton show through.
Dessert is Kharvas – a steamed colostrum pudding that I could skip - and Chirote, which sends me straight to my childhood and memories of eating the golden crisp deep fried layers one by one, licking the icing sugar dusting first, just for fun.
Pluses and minuses: A quaint old home, turned into a restaurant always has a distinct appeal. This one is done up well, with elements from Maharashtra adding authentic touches.
Must try: Peruchi Dahytli Koshimbir, Mini Matar Karanji, Koli Masala Kolambi Fry, Chutney Che Paplet, Tomato Saar, Tondii Masala Bhaat, Dadpe Pohe, Fresh Coconut Karanji, Piyush.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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Meena Tai's
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Tao of Peng
I love quiet gourmet meals. Even if it means a long drive to Tao of Peng.
It’s a balmy evening outside, and the ocean is rustling up a froth at the edge of the Bay of Bengal. For now, though, I’m looking out at the lit up palms, and I think, they are waving at me.
Tao of Peng#39;s decor is muted and loaded with dark brown. The lack of brightness doesn’t matter and I’m ready for Milan’s Wasabi Martini.
A miniature garden on a platter arrives. Called Hon Shimeji, it has me so bowled over that I eat every tiny morsel of that amuse bouche, enjoying every element. That little dish takes hours of prep: every minute worthwhile.
Then the drama begins. A large, black granite square arrives. Chef Avinash Naha gets into his element... A smidge of oil here, a little mound of green flying fish roe there, wasabi dots anywhere... Finally, the dumplings are placed on the bed of flavours. I love the Crispy Prawn Cheung Fan and Asparagus and Corn Dumpling. Winning over my palate, the Crystal Vegetable Dumpling has crisp yet tasty minced veggies. Taro and Water Chestnut is a labour of love. What truly impresses me is the frothy, layered strings that surround the Pan Fried Shanghai Dumpling with Chicken. The meat inside is so surprisingly tender because of the hand patting treatment and the mild spice that permeates the core of the dumpling.
What can I say about the Wasabi Prawns by Chef Sam Leong? Will legendary do? I really don’t know what I like more: the tender prawn, or the surprises in the garnishes or the beetroot emulsion… before I can decide, my plate’s empty.
I’m getting used to all this food luxury, when the Dan Dan Noodles – a farmer’s dish – arrives. Does not look particularly rustic to me: it has been adapted to suit the fine dining tag. The peanut flavour comes through, in fact, I find it almost dominating, in a nice way.
Dessert is a Green Tea Panna Cotta. It’s got the wobble, along with sweet creaminess.
Pluses and minuses: I love the place. No two ways about that. However, the drive could be long. Be warned: Tao of Peng offers some typical tastes and textures.
Must try: Scallop Sui Mai, Lobster Money Bags, Crispy Prawn Cheung Fan, Vegetable and Taro Nest, Chilean Sea Bass, Anise Flavoured Chocolate Dome, Fresh Lemon Sorbet, Frozen Yoghurt Mousse.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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Batlivala Khanabhoy
They could cause sibling rivalry. Because both Batlivala Khanabhoy and Meena Tai#39;s are stacked one above the other. Both different, yet similar. I love the entrance passage on the ground floor with its mishmash of colours, doors and windows from floor to ceiling on one entire wall. Upstairs, Bombay nostalgia hits me as I’m reminded of the Irani restaurants in Mumbai. Only this one doesn’t have the bent Parsi Bawaji at the counter, collecting cash.
Just so you know, the Parsis are not very vegetarian.
I begin my meal with the Lollypop Nu Farcha, that has succulent secretly spiced and marinated chicken chunks sitting on a bone, and, of course, deep fried. I like it by itself, but am supposed to dip it in homemade tomato gravy, which tastes like summer got to it before I did and is a little off. Nothing will convince me it is because of the Navsari Vinegar. And then I move on to do the delicate work of unraveling my Patra Ni Machchi, which is wrapped in a banana leaf before it is cooked. Slathered in mint chutney, the fish has absorbed the flavours from both, and retained its juiciness.
Egg lovers will love the Baruchi Akuri: scrambled egg with a difference. It has the crunch of fine salli (thinly scraped and deep fried potato slivers), nuts deep fried in ghee and the sudden surprise of green chillies. I tried it with the heavily buttered Pav, and was sent to calorie heaven.
Finally a vegetarian starter: Lagan Sara Ishtoo Pattice – semolina crusted and deep fried root vegetables. The crust is like a dominating, protective personality, while the stuffing struggles to be noticed.
For my main course, I’m having the Veg Dhan Shaak with Brown Rice and Kachumber. I love the conflict of flavours and textures that hit my taste buds: tang from the tamarind in the kachumber, crunch from the sliced onions and a slight sweetness from the jaggery. Substance comes from the mix of dals, making it a complete meal.
The Parsis know their food. Dessert is no exception. Kopra Pak in Shot Glasses is for the coconut lovers. And rose lovers. And cashew lovers. It’s got a mix of them all in a shot glass. Somewhat like Kopra Pak gone crazy.
My favourite for the day is the Orange Kheer. Thickened, sweetened milk, with fresh oranges. And cold.
Pluses and minuses: It’s different food. Yet tasty: Gujarati flavours with meat.
Must try: Chicken Russian Pattice, Keema Kababs, Suran Na Cutlets, Guava Ni Curry, Cauliflower in Coconut Milk, Surf and Turf Nu Pulao, Lagan Nu Custard, Ravo.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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The Melting Pot: Market Cafe
Large and open, complete with beams and cane, the color scheme is predominantly golden brown. The Melting Pot is a space where different cuisines meet and melt in the mouth. Three different islands form live kitchens that serve European, Pan Asian and Indian cuisine. Overlooking a lotus pond, I can choose to sit outdoors or indoors, depending on the climate. It#39;s summer, and I love being cool, so indoors it is, for me.
I watched the concentration on the faces of the chefs as they created their food, and tasted their commitment the moment I took my first bite of Ricotta Gallet with fresh mango chutney. Crisp fusion blended to perfection with ajwain and methi, set my stomach into digestion mode. I loved the sweet-sourness from the mango, aided on its way with a sip of the Tamarind and Ginger cooler, which, in Chennai#39;s scorching heat, is a welcome beverage. Headlong into my mini detox, I try the Tricky Turmeric. Bulky because of the tender coconut and papaya, I do get a hint of honey, but that sweet tender coconut is overpowered by the other giants of flavour.
What totally captures my taste buds is the Pan Seared Canadian Scallops. First of all they are perfect. Then they have a smidge of this orange flavoured butter which is deliciously different. Sweetness from the green apple balances the whole dish.
Porcini Flower Pot is all about the mushroom, and that risotto, rich with fungi flavours is cooked in porcini stock. Chicken lovers craving rustic food, do try the Sambalpur Bamboo Chicken. This Oriya delicacy is cooked in a bamboo shoot, sealed with banana leaves so the juices don’t escape and is served with Hajaar Chandha ghee rice, topped with sweet lime juice. I could eat this every day!
For dessert I’m spoiled for choice. However, my vote goes to the Chocolate Silk Cake, which flour-less, but not calorie-less. And of course the New York style Fresh Blueberry Cheese Cake: smooth with a slight lemon zest and totally addictive.
Pluses and minuses: I love every thoughtful element Chef Ashis puts on the platter. Effortless elegance whets the appetite.
Must try: Local Drumstick and Basil Seed Cooler, Zafrani Paneer Tikka, Hand Crafted Cappeletti, Cast Iron Cooked Sea Bass, Stone Cooked Sea Prawn, Low Fat Yoghurt Parfait, Caramelized Banana and Bourbon Ice Cream, Tamraind Sorbet, Australian Lemon Sorbet, Mango Ras Malai.
Critic Reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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Chakraa
Chakraa, with its glass frontage has a circle right in the middle of the restaurant, to remind you of it’s name, in case you forget.
Sunlight, streaming in from the glass frontage, bounces off the red, orange beige and wood décor, telling you this is an honest place, with nothing to hide.
Outside, trees swelter in the afternoon sun, with a breeze offering a hint of respite. Food aromas waft around, whetting my appetite.
This time, I’m doing starting with desserts. The cutest Gulab Jamuns sit in a bowl in front of me, looking like a couple of large brown marbles in syrup. My teeth literally sink into their squishy sponginess, and I enjoy the texture that it yields. Then, I eye the Carrot Halwa, which looks exactly like it should – an orange, textured mass. One bite and I find it deliciously loaded with nuts and khoya.
For the mains, there’s Chicken Biryani. Fragrant and with subtle flavours, this is clearly the chef’s forte.
Prawn Pepper Masala is delicious. Succulent prawns, pepper and onion gravy with a balance of tang and punch. I love how the pungency, although there, does not overpower the other tastes.
Somehow, the chef is not so great when it comes to vegetarian food, and the Palak Paneer is disappointing till it goes back to the kitchen with instructions on improvement, and presto, it actually tastes a lot better, especially with the soft, puffy phulka.
Chicken Malai Tikka could be better. In its defence, the chunks of boneless chicken are soft, but the marinade has not reached the core, leaving it dry. I do get a hint of garlic, but the extra cardamom at the end of my bite leaves me overpowered.
Ambitious, I reach out for the Paneer Tikka, and again find that the marinade is quite superficial and the paneer pieces are thin and dry.
Pluses and minuses: Nicely done up, Chakraa has the potential of turning into a better restaurant. Food wise, like they say on school report cards, Chakraa could do so much better.
Must try: Biryani – both veg and non-veg, Garlic Naan, Paneer Kulcha, Mango Ice Cream.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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Jonah's Goes Fishing with Chef Willi
Let’s just say I’m a little overwhelmed with all the décor drama happening inside Jonah’s Goes Fishing with Chef Willi. There’s sharp angular geometry on the ceiling, with touches of glass. The lights are cute: small and gold mesh covered, they hang from the ceiling, making their bright statements. The walls have continuous wooden rolling pin like sticks lining them, lit from below for extra effect. Comfortable blue velvet sofas sit on wood finished flooring. Black glass on columns and beams reflects the light that filters in through the restaurant#39;s transparent frontage.
One place, lots of choices: sea food, meat, vegetarian all in the cuisine of your choice.
I choose Prawn Satay on skewers. It is succulent, and has crumbs of peanuts adding a nutty crunch, while the sauce looks like peanut sauce it tastes different in a nice way. Not a nutty way, though.
I like that the Veg Spring Rolls are baked, not fried. That way the shells remain crisper. My first bite is by itself, and I actually taste the minced veggies. Second, I smidge on the sweet chilli sauce and decide both work well for me.
Baked Fish Fingers are technically baked, but after being coated with fried and crushed potato chips. Go figure. I’m told they actually have less fat than being fried in hot oil. They taste delicious, though, and for once I’m not averse to dipping my fish in a mix of tomato ketchup and puree.
Salad Time. I choose the Moroccan Salad and find it offers a profusion of tastes. Rich sweetness from date chunks add texture to the light juiciness of pomegranate arils followed by the slight hardness of the seeds inside. Boiled chickpeas provide protein while carrot chunks and walnut halves make it a light meal.
Spicy Prawn Udon Noodles are soft, thick and slurpy enough to enjoy.
Without a second thought, I order dessert. Hungarian Pancakes. Three of them come sugar dusted and surrounded by sweet and gooey caramel syrup. Whipped cream sits in a mound looking most angelic, but add a dot to your pancake drenched in the syrup and head straight to dessert heaven. If you concentrate you will taste the apple and banana in the pancake. Yum.
Pluses and minuses: This restaurant has the advantage of its location. You can get your workout, beauty treatment and food all in one place. Just spend the day there. Remember to take along your credit card.
Must Try: Pizza, Sweet and Spicy Fish, Grilled Fish, Zucchini Boats, Chicken Camembert, Chocolate Pot.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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The Mirror's Mind

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Unbelievable Vir Das

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Orchid
First of all, the brightness and then the size of the space strikes you as you enter Fortune Select Grand’s 24 hour dining space, Orchid. Smooth easy flooring matches the brown clad pillars while the rust and green seating offer both chair and sofa options.
The scene is set. A grand buffet is laid out while a la carte options are available on the menu. I spot the Tom Yum Soup and instantly order it. While the flavours are all in place, the prawn is on the tough side, and with that my interest evaporates.
Mushroom Cappuccino on the other hand is a better choice. It has surprises of mushroom pieces in an otherwise smooth soup.
When there’s sushi, I must grab a bite. Before I can get to the middle of it, the wasabi hits me into a watery silence for a few minutes. Then I find that the rice used to make it is local and it lacks that sushi-ness one has grown to recognize.
Suddenly, the food takes an about turn. It gets better with an excellent Mutter Tikki served with an unusual raw papaya, mango and yoghurt chutney. The whole scene shifts into top gear. Enter: Afghani Tikka. It arrives grandly, holding minced nuts, saffron and a mild sweetness from the dry fruits that match perfectly with the hung curd and jeera dip.
Next in line, the whole pomfret surrounded by mild tandoori marinade manages to leave the fish flavours intact. As impressive is the Tangadi Kebab. Succulent and enhanced by the mint chutney. For a tiny twist, I tried it with the papaya, mango, yoghurt dip.
Lamb Chops are certainly the chef’s best. Besides the tender mutton flavours, you will get a pleasant taste of the rosemary.
Mains include home style Green Dal with Tandoori Roti. The dal presents a tiny glimpse of garlic - just a whiff and you#39;ll miss kind of way. A mystery ingredient you cannot really hide.
For my dessert I head straight to the buffet and choose the Profiteroles, and am glad I did. Not too sweet the skillful choux pastry is filled with cream and coated with chocolate.
Pluses and minuses: Nice ambiance. The food has good parts and not-so-good minor aspects that need ironing out.
Must try: Steamed Fish with Olive Oil and Chicken Sausages, Tandoori Prawns, Sheek Kebab, Murgh Malai Tikka, Mutton Biryani, Virudhunagar Chicken Curry, Gulab Jamun, Elneer Payasam, Blueberry Cheesecake.
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them
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Whistle Podu

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Kalyana Velayil Karadi

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The Madras Diner, Mogappair: First Look

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